scared

for probably the first time in my life, i was really scared of sharks last night. brought my board to work 'cause i knew i'd be doing other shit for the rest of the week and wouldn't have much time to surf...and, as usual for the past two weeks at least, got stuck at work late. i watch the moon phases....it's full on wed/thurs (or at least close)....so the moon was bright, the sky was clear, and the wind was DEAD. so i said fuck it and went out. going out, three people were paddling in. got out there...and two guys caught their last wave in. then another guy out there chilled for a while and caught HIS last wave in before dark. left only one other guy out there who looked like he was a japanese tourist enjoying all he could of hawaii...he kept eating it pretty badly but kept at it. props.

either way...he eventually left too. of course what i have to add was that it was small (rare 3 footer) but just about as perfect as kaiser's get. the bowl would occasionally make a PERFECT 2 ft. barrel that i couldn't for the life of me pick out at all. the thing about kaiser's, rock piles and bowls is they all peel beautifully. superfast run for the shoulder...and with no wind it was just glassy. my board's a little to small for waves that small...so i got quite a workout....but goddamn it was pretty. i would've stayed out there all night if japanese dude hadn't bailed as well under a clear sky and near full moon as the sun cast its last bit of energy into a thin band of deep purple horizon...

first star only brings one thing to mind these days...

so there i am. alone in silence. bigass moon on my left, boat channel in the same direction....and my mind wandered to something that's been bothering me lately...what would happen if i really did get hurt? how would my life change? take a look at my hobbies...surf, ultimate, cars, guitar, typing (gibberish)...hell my WORK is on computers. what would i do without an arm? a leg? even less a FINGER!?

a rare moment that i choose the "possible risk" over the gauranteed fun (women excluded, jackass)...and i swam in. moon wasn't bright enough to see more than the difference between rock and sand (dark/light) and i was already imagining shadows undulating beneath me. it was also SUPER low tide (-.4 ft.) so cut my finger (cut my foot earlier) and got a rock/shell/chunk of coral lodged in the bottom of my board. fuck. one more repair....too bad i'm never home in daylight anymore.



*getting old*