rest

first time in a while, i've decided to rest tomorrow from both ultimate and surfing. out surfing today (2-4ft.) at diamond head i got pounded a few times and my back was getting pretty aggravated, i almsot came in because of it, but stayed for a few more sets instead. i'm sure work does not help it at all since i have to lift so much and bend down even more....but yeah. i think i need a bit of a break.

surfing was awesome, though. met up with thomas after dropping my dad off at the bus stop and hit that shit like the shitty surfers we are : ) i caught some of the biggest waves i've ever attempted. diamond head's a real mellow wave though. no barrel at all, so it just kinda mushes into whitewater, but it's still got peaks so it makes a real clean wave most of the time, good for chill riding, as well as learning. some monsters still came through though, one of them i got caught inside on and it crushed me...felt my back twinge there as i couldn't hold on the board as tight as i would've liked. thomas was on a longboard he hadn't used in a long time and was havin' some problems, but still caught some sweet rides (sweeter'n mine...).

i'm gonna try and get to sleep soon...i felt like shit today at work. ...eight hours of work on like, just over four hours of sleep ain't so hot. and then two hours of surfing...madness.

i'm an animal.

animal.