Burn it Off

my self-inflicted panopticon failed.

7.19.2003

slackers

everyone's slackin' off on their blogs lately, besides christian who's showing a renewed vigor....who just said bye to hit up the siren festival at coney island. my brother was in town that weekend so he, my sister and i all went down. it was pretty cool.

so i'm leaving for this loco moco tournament in about fifteen or twenty minutes. my back's actually not feeling all that great 'cause i played really hard on thusday...surprisingly it felt FINE while i was playing, which is why i kept steppin' it up. AFTERWARDS, however, like, when i got home is when it started to hurt. very curious *shrugs*. i'm gonna try and be as cautious as i can, but i'm really excited to play. 'nother one of those days i'll be avoiding all pain killers....i like to know how much shit hurts. i've been getting a lotta headaches lately..kinda weird. haven't figured out why yet..i mean i'm not stressed. i work eight hours, and then i either go surfing or play ultimate most of the time...when i'm not dead.

speaking of surfing, the waves yestereday were FUCKING AMAZING. forecast said 2-4 i think but it was about 3-5, and more consistent than i'd ever seen kewalo's. the tide was kinda low ....low enough to stand on the reef so that was kinda scary, but damn the waves were pretty. light wind, just enough to glass over the surface, and swells coming in from two different directions so these pretty bowls would form making a perfect point break from time to time. of course i wasn't catching those monsters (keep in mind when two waves join, they ADD....so this was a big point break) but just as in every time i go out, i catch the biggest wave and take the biggest drop and have the longest ride of my life. it's very slow, but steady progress. i wish i coulda' stayed out longer but my dad was waiting for me and i haven't been surfing since last sunday..i've been concentrating on ultimate this week and repairing my board....so my triceps were getting tired and i could tell a bit longer and i would've pulled one of them. great shit, though.

i'm trying to convince my mom to let me teach her how to surf :) she's always complaining about not having anything 'fun' to excercise with (she does play tennis though) and surfing is amazing excercise...especially learning! how cool would that be...."i'm going surfing with mom"....haha. lewis (bro) surfs too, so anytime he's home i'm sure we'll be going out....although i don't know when that's gonna be...possibly not for a while.

aight, i'm gonna go get ready. gotta go find some redbull too : )

and maybe some skittles.

bubbarand and a visor

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