worked

so i got worked yesterday at diamond head. i kinda don't have (meaning DON'T) medical insurance right now so i went to a 'safe' surfspot....mainly a place with really deep water. i've touched bottom at diamond only once (before) in my life...and that was going over the falls on the inside, so that was no biggie...yesterday, howeverl..i was on the outside break about 30 yds. FURTHER out than i usually line up, and i dive through three monsters, and then big momma comes and i can't make it anywhere near close to it breaking so i ditch my board and dive as deep as i can. no luck, she picks me up and slams me to the bottom of the ocean (estimating 15 ft. or more deep) and i get cut up...not horribly but it scared the shit outa' me.

also buckled my board...it was BIG.

so fun.