surf lesson day #3

waves caught: 4-5
total time standing: 5 seconds....
cute surfer girls: 4
cute surfer girls who could surf better than me: 4

i'm getting a better feel for it. i went to diamond head today (instead of waikiki) which is the reason for the seeming regression in progress. diamond head is a much more powerful wave, and much more trying on the stamina type thing....also...faster when you're on the wave. i'm still trying to figure out the balance of the surfboard...it's very hard to balance on one...compared to a bodyboard where you just lie on the thing. but yeah, i'm a lot better at duck diving now so i don't get pounded trying to get out, but then yeah, once i'm out there i just kidn of bob around and look like an idiot : ) i love my life. *sigh* maybe next time (tomorrow?)

i need food.

pickled mango