surf lesson day 5

...jesus i suck.

so today, the day before this swell peaks, waikiki was pretty big so i went out after four hours of sleep and dropping my dad off at work. there were so many people out there..ugh. i really didn't catch ANYTHING worth noting 'cause (for all you non-surfers out there) longboarders can paddle a lot faster than short boarders so they can get on a wave faster. i, on the short board, have to wait until the wave's almost breaking to catch it so most of the waves i 'could' catch have already been caught by some longboarder....meh. but yeah, got lots of duck diving practice (diving under already-broken waves). sliced my toe pretty well on some reef and smacked my face really hard on my board 'cause i dove under a big wave and my hand slipped off so *thunk*, bloody lip and a numb nose/lip/chin area. i don't think it swelled but the inside of my lip (sliced on my teeth) will inevitably get infected...as usual.....fuck.

i'm debating whether or not to just take my bodyboard out tomorrow since it'll be even bigger.

do not go quietly into that good night
rage rage against the dying of the light

i'm such a stubborn idiot :) i need a fuckin' nap...and a job...and a vet's appointment.

peace