surf

so my mom decided to give me $100 towards a surf board for my birthday ( a month away). heh...score. i was thinking about it and granted i'm only going to be using it for about a month and a half now, but it'll always be here for me....AND, i can't really think of anything else i really want/need right now. *shrugs* so we went to some garage sales and used board places in kailua today but didn't find anything that i really liked, so the hunt continues.

i went out to diamond head again (i think i'm on day nine or something) and i'm getting pretty good at this. i'm learning how to deal with the speed and i'm catching bigger waves now. still not the greatest at turning...it doesn't help that the wave is predominantly a right....i guess i should explain that. well, in surfing...as in, snowboarding, say, you have to choose which way you ride. you can ride 'regular', which is left food forward, or 'goofy', with your right foot forward. i ride goofy (as i learned snowboarding), called that simply because less people ride that way (it's kind of a right/left hand thing) so on a right (a wave that breaks to the right), my back is to the wave, and it's a bit difficult to be riding something i have to look over my shoulder to see, while trying to balance. it's much easier to ride a wave when you're facing it (for me, a left) 'cause the wave's right in front of you to see. i'm getting the hang of it though. at diamond head the left is okay...but the problem is the current and wind always go to the left, so if i go left, i have to fight the current and the wind to get back and you'll always get caught inside and get POUNDED. lotsa fun...but i'll pass. if you catch the left, you ride right back into the channel and can swim back out around the break.

i think pretty soon i might try kewalo's, which is a pretty left with a channel, but the reef gets shallow as you ride in so that might be....painful. we'll see ;)

'nother scrimmage tomorrow morning. nice wake up motivation i suppose.....i don't think i'll be in the best shape. i've found that i can't be "active" (surfing, blading, ultimating) every day....i need some rest now and then ; ) getting old.....

home brew