harry potter and the sorcerer's stone
up north

been awhile, once again. that's 'cause i've spent the last two days up at the north shore (fyi, i live about five minutes from the south tip of o`ahu). wednesday morning i woke up at like 7:30am, dropped my mom off at work in waimanalo, and drove up to wahiawa to thomas' house. we hung out there for a bit and then went to ehukai to surf. was HOT, man. 3-4, somtimes bigger, reasonably clean conditions. we were out in the water for close to four hours....damn was i tired. i caught some of the biggest waves of MY life...and also got some of the biggest wipeouts, haha. hell what doesn't kill me only makes me stronger. learned a lot about what i can handle.

slept over at thomas' house after a bbq and jeremy narca's house. we were planning on going surfing again the next morning and i wasn't thrilled about the idea of driving home 45 minutes buzzed and then back up the next morning and thomas offered to put me up for the night (my mom got a ride so she didn't need the car). went out the next morning a bit later (closer to noon) and surfed again until about 3. yesterday (thursday) was even BIGGER, and this time it grew teeth. the wind picked up and put a nasty chop in the waves making it tough as hell. i caught like, two waves and a whole bunch caught ME. definitely the most dangerous conditions i've ever been out in but i managed not to drown. did get scared a few times...like when my hair came undone and wrapped around my face and i couldn't breath. yeah that wasn't fun. speaking of which when i finally came home i had my mom trim it. i can still put it up in a ponytail, but a very small one. cut off about five or six inches....i'm still deciding whether i want it like this or if i should chop it more. we'll see.

so yeah, 'nother three hours and three near-drownings later i finally came home for a few hours. only to go bck out to this club called ocean's in town...which by far had the highest concentration of the HOTTEST fuckin' women i've ever seen. SO many that were my type of hot. which is rare :) the hottest one being this girl that looked like milla jovovich with brown eyes wearing fishnet stockings and knee-high black leather boots. *sigh* if only i had game. well, even if i did, i'll only be here for a little more than a week....

so yeah, i had a nice time. got home at like 4:30am after eating at likelike drivein (an old school 24/7 diner) with thomas and i woke up at about 2:30 this afternoon. perhaps the best three days of my life: surf, eat, drink. surf, eat, drink. SLEEEEEEEP.

i love my life here.


guava jelly