Burn it Off

my self-inflicted panopticon failed.

1.18.2004

nada
fly



so in 24 hours i slept as much as i surfed (~7 hours). not bad. i'm sure the rest of the time i was just eating. i actually have a bit of a potbelly! wow. oh well, ultimate should work that off. on the plus side i have an upperbody now.

yesterday i almost stuck the tip of my board in my ear. instead i got the rail (lucky) to the ear. hurt like a bitch. today, i was on a wave but started getting sucked up by it (whitewash) and fell forward. usually when you fall off your board, it'll like fly up and away from you or something...but this time, i guess there was enough water pushing down on it 'cause it was heavy enough to go riding without me...right over me. i got a skeg just below the elbow...broke the skin! heh. not that i care about a little cut, but the bad part is that i had my arm up covering my fuckin' HEAD. that could've been bad.

yay surf injuries.

packin' up, shippin' out. i'll be back in nyc tomorrow evening (monday). i should sleep just FINE on the plane.


aloha

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