good day surfing

went out early this morning (eight am) 'cause i had to drop my dad off at work before then. went to waikiki today 'cause there's a south swell approaching pickin' up the wave heights and i figured at that early in the morning there wouldn't be much of a crowd out there. i was right, it was sweet. the wind was still calm (it's like that in the morning in hawaii) so the water was GLASSY. so beautiful. i met this little kid out there too (thirteen, fourteen) named kainoa. he was a better surfer than i and we were talkin' about some breaks that we were familiar with and this and that about surfing. very talkative guy, every wave he'd catch ('cause he'd catch like twice as many as i) he'd swim up and be like "whoa, blah blah blah!" heh, it was fun. he gave me a few pointers too...kind of him.

also on the list today, i SMACKED my right testicle so fuckin' hard i thought it was going to fall off. i coaught this wave and didn't survive the drop, catching a far edge and catapulting straight down onto the surface of the water kind of belly-flopping my package....ouch. i had a bob around there for a few minutes to let the pain reside.

i also sliced my left foot pretty deeply. it went kinda sideways, under the skin getting down to some white meat. no muscle though...but this one'll hurt. going for the isopropyl in a few minutes :) can't wait!!!

that's me, who're you?

saimin